This paper is based on a 16-year-long ethnography of mass grave exhumations in contemporary Spain and deals with the tortuous, painful, much-disputed, and incomplete unmaking of a concrete and massive militaristic inscription of Spain: that related to its last internal war (1936-1939) and subsequent dictatorship (1939-1975). To understand this process and its historical roots, the paper first dissects the formation of a "funerary apartheid" in the country since the end of the war. Second, it analyzes the impact on the social fabric of the mass grave exhumations of Republican civilians that started in the year 2000. Third, it traces how these disinterments have intersected with Spain's most prominent Francoist stronghold, the Valley of the Fallen, and threaten the dictator's burial place. Finally, it discusses the parallel dismantling of the dictatorship's official statuary that once presided over prominent public spaces in many cities and some military quarters. It argues that rolling back militarization by dismantling war-derived cartographies of death, challenging military burial arrangements, or degrading statues of generals necessarily involves a certain level of remilitarizing by other means. I call this mirroring and deeply embodied memorial backfiring "phantom militarism."